We pick up the newly repaired van early in the morning and travel just 50km south to the seaside town of Harrington. It's blowing a gale, buffeting the van and making driving a real chore so we are relieved when we reach town. We haven't decided how long we plan to stay so unpack the bare minimum. Despite the blustery conditions there appears to be a lot of fishing options. However we are not blown away by the park aesthetics - dirt sites and we are next to a dump point which doesn't make an extended stay here overly appealing.
In the afternoon we go for a drive to nearby Crowdy Head and it's anything but as we see just a handful of people in this sleepy village. We made our way up to the headland to take take in the views from the lighthouse. In the evening Tomoko begins to prepare dinner but alas, the bloody gas burners are still on the blink. It's very annoying and I feel the heat of frustration building up inside me. If only our gas burners would do likewise.
Early the next day I again attempt to light the burners and they remain idle. I call the repair centre, explain the situation & they say 'come in straight away so they can have a look at it'. I say to Tomoko 'let's go', give the burners one last try and babooshka - they are bloody working. I don't know whether to laugh or cry. We still make the decision to return to Port for further inspection. The burners perform admirably under the careful eye of the repairman, the fault identified as possible residual oil left in the gas lines. I'm not 100% convinced it's fixed but we have to keep moving and with that, we again depart.
We avoid returning to Harrington and continue on to Forster. I suspect Port Macquarie has jinxed our gas burners. It's the first thing that went wrong when we got here and has plagued us ever since. We have passed through Forster once before, on the way to a mates wedding and were looking forward to having a proper look around. We arrive at the Lakeside Resort and set the van up on the grassy banks of Lake Wallis.
The first couple of days here we cop some rainy weather and it's not until Saturday that we put our explorers cap on. I wake at dawn and probe seven mile beach for beach worms. I have a couple of barra skeletons I bought from the co-op but they haven't stunk up enough to entice any worms to poke their heads up out of the sand for me to grab. I do find a plentiful supply of pipis however and decide they will do fine for the next fishing adventure. The fish frames are buried in the sand for me to use in a few days time. The beach has about four access points and I inspect the gutters from each one. The gutters lie the length of the beach but they are very wide and there's no spot that seems particularly likely to hold fish.
Later in the morning Tomoko and I meander past a series of beaches and lakes to Seal Rocks and are stunned by its beauty. It reminds me a lot of Byron minus the commercialism and crowds. The water is calm and crystal clear. I spot a couple of spear fishermen and they regale me with stories of their close encounter with the resident sharks. One of them had 4 fish on his float line when a shark bit through it, sparking a bit of a frenzy as 4 or so sharks came in for a feed - one about 6 foot in length. I had forgotten to pack my fins and was now thinking it was perhaps a blessing in disguise. Shortly after though, a boat comes in with 2 freshly speared kingfish, I estimate to be about 8 - 10kg each.
We spend some time swimming and relaxing on the beach. I carry an unwilling Shaka into the water for a swim and once he's safely on the beach again he gallops around like a pup. It's rare to see him so animated these days and Tomoko and I have a laugh. It's heartwarming to see him so energetic in his senior years. After lunch I walked up to yet another lighthouse. It's a bit more impressive than the one at Crowdy Head and a passing whale supplies the entertainment, thrashing his fin repeatedly on the ocean surface.
I fish seven mile beach the following day at dawn. I find some pipis and lob them just past the shore break. There is an outside break running the length of the beach but as I suspected, is too far to reach. I spend a good hour patiently fishing without reward and just when I finally decide to move on, I get bitten off. Next cast, I hook a nice dart and I think things are heating up. Wasn't to be though, as I end up with 2 dart and a bream. Tomoko however, is stoked when I return with the evenings sashimi ingredients.
It's another beautiful sunny day and we have lunch at 'Tartt', a cafe in Forster's main street. Tomoko, Shaka and I share calamari and burgers and take a stroll along the river behind the CBD. I spot the marine authorities and he pulls up to some young fellas in a boat for a chat. Meanwhile, a bloke in tinny approaches the small flotilla. I see he's not wearing his life jacket and expect him to turn around and scarper. I can't decide if he's brave or stupid as he beaches his craft alongside the marine boat. Luckily for him, the inspector had his full attention on the young fellas and he escapes any penalty.
The next day I decide to go worming. The barra skeletons I buried in the sand should have a significant whiff by now but when I go to retrieve the frames they are gone. I don't know who's thieved them but suspect a sea bird (probably a mighty sea eagle). With worming now off the itinerary I visit the local cinema and see 'Gone Girl' with Ben Affleck. It's cheap Tuesday and packed with senior citizens, many who are impressed with my ability to polish off a large popcorn and coke by myself. In the foyer I see a familiar face. It is Richard, one of our neighbours in Bonny Hills. It really is a small world.
Our final few days in Forster are mostly uneventful as we prepare to travel to our next destination...the Newcastle suburb of Stockton. Until then...adios amigos.