It's the weekend and we bid farewell to Shark Bay for the four hour journey to Kalbarri. After 2000kms of desert scrub we come across fields of golden wheat. With the exception of the small agricultural strip near Carnarvon, it's the first bit of arable land we have seen and a sign that our remote travels will soon be at an end. We soon enter Kalbarri National Park, the roadside is splashed with the colour of pink and yellow wildflowers and despite Magic Dirt playing on the car stereo, those who know me well would be well aware of what song was playing in my head (hint: Electric album - Track 1). We set up camp at the Tudor Caravan Park, locking in a now familiar 'Pay 3 for 4' deal and spend the afternoon exploring the town. Kalbarri is a small holiday town at the mouth of a river and surrounded by national park, drawing instant comparisons to Evans Head. We explore the beaches close to town, keen to uncover any surfing or fishing locations and perchance along a dog beach. We watch a six month old border collie play fetch, her obsession with the stick reminding us very much of Shaka in his younger days. Manta's owner is a young lady who we learn used to live in Lennox and work at the Ballina RSL. I get the feeling I've seen her somewhere but our time spent on the North Coast doesn't correlate. She's a surfer and the conversation soon gravitates to the subject of sharks, an emotive subject for surfers, particularly those in the Ballina area. It's here that she reveals her boyfriend was taken by a Great White two years previous and I recall seeing her interviewed on TV shortly after. The attack sparked the controversial use of drum lines off Perth's beaches and I had only just been discussing this with the Monkey Mia doco lads a few days previous . You can see an article on it here.
I have Tomoko all to myself on Sunday and we decide to visit the national park. The park is divided by two distinct areas - coastal cliffs and inland gorges. The coastal area features rugged coastal scenery while inland the Murchison River Gorge is highlighted. The choice is Tomoko's and it's the gorges for us. The folks at the information centre say it's been one of the best wildflower seasons in over a decade. We have missed the peak season of August and September but still manage to count a dozen different type of flowers and they certainly liven the place up. The national park is home to more than 800 species of wildflowers and we can only imagine what a spectacle it would be in full bloom. The temperature was nudging the high 30's so we restricted ourselves to a couple of short walks. 'Natures Window' is the iconic Kalbarri photographic experience and 'Z bend' had some cracking views as well.
We had a tentative early morning appointment with the 8km loop walk the next day but I was waylaid with another gastric complaint. The Coral Bay cafe incident had weakened my stomach and something had set it off again. Was it the muffin from the remote roadhouse, the day old trevally we had for sushi or the old bottle of water I filled up from who knows where? Whatever the reason it was definitely becoming a thorn in my side and curtailed my activity a bit. I did manage to tour the coastal section of the national park but before that, I checked out Jakes Point. A national surfing reserve, the wave is a gnarly left hand reef break that offers 200m rides if you survive the takeoff. There is not enough swell for it to break on this day, but I could see it's promise. The national park begins at the next headland and it offers a series of scenic lookouts and walks. 'Red Bluff' provides a great view towards the town. 'Pot Alley' is a popular fishing spot where baits are floated out to sea suspended under balloons and I watch a couple of lads enthusiastically take advantage of the offshore breeze. A couple of South African gentlemen had just landed a 60kg bronze whaler so they had good reason to be excited. I watch a pod of 30 dolphins cruising below the lookout at 'Shellhouse Grandstand' and the weather beaten structures of 'Island Rock' and 'Natural Bridge' is WA's equivalent to Victoria's Great Ocean Road. My exploring done for the day, I cooled off with a snorkel in the Blue Holes. A collection of rock pools protected from the swell, I spot many fish including spangled emperor, parrot fish and whiting.
Thats all for now. Until next time...adios muchachos.