After 11 days in Gero we continued our transit 200km south to Jurien Bay. Taking the scenic Indian Ocean Drive, we hugged the coastline and passed many old fishing shacks nestled in the dunes. Arriving at the Jurien Bay Tourist Park the receptionist almost seemed offended that I hadn't made a booking, pointing out that we were very lucky to get in as they are always full. I reckoned everywhere would be pretty quiet leading up to Christmas, my hunch confirmed by the vast number of empty sites surrounding us. Still the town had a very relaxed, holiday resort feel to it.
The weather forecast predicted mostly strong winds but I circled the calendar on a few days when it would moderate, to explore the nearby coastline. A 15km drive north of Jurien Bay leads to Sandy Cape Recreational Park. There's a basic campground here & it is busy, not surprisingly as the rate is just $15 a night and it backs onto a picturesque beach and headland. There are a handful of families enjoying the protected corner. A red kelpie is playing fetch and hitching a ride on a standup paddle board. It reminds me of taking Shaka fishing with me in the tinny, ever the eager deckie. I hike up to a lookout suspended above some Sahara-like dunes and take in the impressive views. The calm turquoise waters on the northern side of the point has me mesmerised and I can't resist gathering my snorkelling gear for a closer look. This part of the WA coast is synonymous with crayfish so I don a pair of gloves and catch bag just in case I luck upon a couple. The rocky shores are lined with seagrass and kelp & I dive in to inspect every nook and cranny that catches my eye. I don't see any crays but spot an octopus hidden in a crevice. I briefly contemplate trying to catch it but instead simply prod it with my abalone knife. It latches onto the knife, gives me a hell of a fright and scarpers. Shortly after I encounter a huge black jewfish. It doesn't seem overly concerned by my presence but watches me warily and I regret my decision not to bring the speargun. On the way in I find a huge slug like creature. It's carrying a massive shell easily twice the size of my hand (though I do have dainty hands) and I gently place it back on the seabed. The shoreline also houses green slug like creatures, what they are I do not know.
The relatively calm conditions continued the following day and I extended my explorations to Point Louise. It's located just north of Green Head, another sleepy fishing village with a perfectly shaped inlet called Dynamite Bay. I imagine its chocker block in the summer holidays but only a lone German couple take advantage of it on this day. Diesel at the general store was a freakishly low $121.9 per litre compared to $137.9 at the Jurien Bay Caltex and I promise to fill up before we leave. Point Louise is the main if only, surf break in these parts. It's a reef break that a local guy informs me 'goes off' during the winter months. The swell on this day is too small for surfing but the lagoon that fronts the reef looks perfect for a snorkel. This time I grab the GoPro and explore the calm waters. I'm still on the lookout for fresh seafood but only see some abalone shells someone has dumped here. Afterwards I discover a secluded bay that houses a couple of little islands, walking out to one and climbing it. It looks like a great spot to have a beer and watch the sunset, the few empties I find suggesting I'm not the first to think so.
The respite from blustery conditions was short lived and I diverted my attentions away from the coastline, deciding to visit Stockyard Gully Cave. On the way I came across the entrance to Lesueur National Park and took a detour on the 18km scenic drive. This is another WA wildflower hot spot and I'm forever stopping the car when I spy a hint of colour among the scrubby heath. I notice half a dozen different species to the ones we saw in Kalbarri and if we come this way again I reckon we'll definitely have to time it with spring.
After getting my fill of wildflowers I continued to Stockyard Gully National Park. I put the Navara into 4WD and after pushing through a sandy track and negotiating a rocky path, arrived at the car park to the cave. The national park is littered with many limestone subterranean caves and this was one of the more impressive ones. I meandered along a dry riverbed and found a kangaroo resting in the grass. We eyed each other, both coming to the conclusion that we posed no threat and I continued on my way. Nearing the entrance to the cave I came across a sign, warning to be aware of feral bees in the area which are particularly aggressive on hot days. There was a cool breeze blowing so I wasn't particularly concerned but I did notice several large beehives suspended menacingly on the under hang of the surrounding cliff. Armed with a torch I hesitantly entered the 300m long cave. As I ventured further the air cooled and the sounds of the bush evaporated into an eerie silence, only the sound of my breathing audible. I turned off the light occasionally to conserve batteries (I wasn't sure how much charge was left) and the darkness was complete. The thought of travelling through the passage in pitch black was a disconcerting one and after 3 or 4 bends I was relieved to reach the other side. As I exited the cave, I noticed an interestingly shaped boulder. I think it resembles a monkey but Tomoko fancies it looks like a fish. What do you reckon?
The following day took me south, past the town of Cevantes to the Nambung National Park and the Pinnacles. It is a desert-like scene with thousands of limestone pillars, some as high as 3.5m tall piercing the sandy floor. Many have likened it to an alien landscape and I have to agree it's like venturing into another world.
Come Saturday we left Jurien Bay for Perth where the rig will spend the summer holiday season in a storage facility while Tomoko and I fly to the Goldy and then on to Ballina. We have a midnight flight booked and kill time catching the latest Star Wars episode and finalising xmas shopping. Speaking of which, Merry Christmas and all the best for 2016. The adventure recommneces in the new year. Until then...adios amigos.